The Cellar: For the Love of Cabernet (Franc)
Friday, July 25, 2014
Steffen Rasch, GoLocalWorcester Wine Writer
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Saget Chinon |
One of my favorite grape varietals is Cabernet Franc. If you haven’t tasted a Cabernet Franc before you are so missing out! Originally from Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc has since spread to every major wine region across the world. Often used as a blending grape – principally with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – Cab Franc adds herbaceous accents of tobacco and dark spice. There are a couple of regions that specialize in bottling Cabernet Franc by itself, including France’s Loire Valley and New York’s Finger Lakes wine region. As a varietal wine, Cabernet Franc is light to medium bodied and often shows vegetal characteristics and bright acidity. I usually detect aromas of herbs and green bell peppers in well-made Cab Franc.
Cabernet Franc is a pretty versatile grape and can grow in a variety of climates - cool (think Finger Lakes), moderate (think Bordeaux), as well as warm (think Napa Valley). The aromas and flavors of the wine will change as the grape ripens on the vine: the herbaceous and vegetal elements will tone down, the red fruits will turn into dark fruits, the acidity will go down and the alcohol will increase turning the wine weightier on the palate. I prefer the cool climate expression of Cabernet Franc and believe that the best ‘old world’ examples are made in France’s Loire Valley where three villages, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon and Bourgueil (pronounced bor-goy) specialize in making single variety Cabernet Franc.
This week’s feature Cabernet Franc is from Saget La Perriere – their 2012 ‘Marie de Beauregard’ Chinon. If you are just getting into Cabernet Franc this wine is a great entry-point as Cabernet Franc’s often very assertive earthy, herbaceous and vegetal elements (elements that most Cabernet Franc lovers absolutely adore) are toned down. This has been achieved by careful hand sorting, choosing only the ripest of grapes, and having barrel aged the wine for 9 months. The result is a refined Cabernet Franc – silky smooth - with lovely red cherries and blueberries, hints of vanilla, earth and coffee. For well under $20 this wine is worth seeking out.
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Mandolin |
Try it next to a great Californian Cabernet Sauvignon and compare/contrast the structures (acidity, alcohol, tannin), aromas and flavors. If you need inspiration, look for the 2012 Mandolin Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine displays in interesting mix of dark cherries, cigar, cedar box and anis. To call this wine a ‘cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon’ is probably overstating it. But compared to some of the over-the-top, ripe (often flabby) Californian Cabernets Sauvignon’s out there the Mandolin does come across nice and cool with a refreshing acidic grip at the finish. The tannins are very well intergraded with just enough to dry ones tongue. These structural elements give the wine character in my opinion – and character is often hard to find in this >$15 price range.
If you like this kind of nerdy wine stuff and interested in exploring Cabernet Franc in depth, you should consider signing up for the next wine tasting at the Providence Wine Academy - hosted by yours truly. The august 4th tasting features three Cab Francs, as well as flight of the varietals Viognier and Malbec. Don’t miss out!
Cheers!
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at srasch@ProvidenceWineAcademy.com with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.
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Hardwick
Hardwick Vineyard & Winery
Central Mass’s own Hardwick Vineyard & Winery, open March-December, is a close to home treasure that produces 3,000 gallons of wine each year. The winery, which grows 6 varieties of grapes, is built on a quiet road in Hardwick that abuts the Quabbin Reservoir. Located on the property is a majestic 200 year old mansion. This weekend, take the trip to the vineyard to enjoy a wine tasting. Favorites include Massetts Cranberry and Yankee Girl Blush. If you head out on a Sunday; you’ll be in luck—the winery is hosting Sangria Sundays for the rest of the month.
3305 Greenwich Road, Hardwick, MA. (413) 967-7763.
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Westport Rivers
Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery
Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.
417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.
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Coastal Vineyards
A relatively young addition to the Massachusetts family of wineries and vineyards, Coastal Vineyards in South Dartmouth opened its doors in 2004. Coastal Vineyards grows eight varieties of grapes on their property, including Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and more. For a special treat, head over on Sunday for their Ugly Sweater Wine Party featuring acoustic musician Ryan Thaxter. Don your ugliest sweater to get 35% off your purchase—and a chance at a prize.
61 Pardon Hill Road, South Dartmouth, MA.
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Amherst Farm Winery
Head out to one of Massachusetts’s favorite college towns this weekend to check out Amherst Farm Winery. Enjoy a wine tasting set in a cozy 19th century post and beam dairy barn. For only $5 receive a logo glass and a taste of 5 of their 15 wines, including unique flavors like chocolate raspberry, pumpkin frost, cranberry, and more. Bring a picnic and cozy up on their leather sofa by the fire to enjoy your wine with a snack.
529 Belchertown Road, Amherst, MA. (413) 253-1400.
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Nashoba Valley WInery
Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!
100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.
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Mill River Winery
Mill River Winery, located in Rowley, is the perfect wine destination for a mini-getaway. Enjoy the gorgeous winter scenery of Western Massachusetts as you wind through country roads to the winery. Mill River’s tasting room is housed in a refurbished cider mill, complete with eclectic décor that provides for an excellent tasting and shopping experience. Try their delicious Naked Chardonnay, a full bodied chardonnay with aromatic notes of lemon zest and pear. If you would like to get a “Dirt to Bottle Tour,” make sure to be at the winery at 2pm or 4pm Saturday or Sunday.
498 Newburyport Turnpike, Rowley, MA. (978) 432-1280.
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Black Birch Vineyard
For only $6, get the full Black Birch Vineyard experience—tasting and a tour! Enjoy the great mix of contemporary and rustic décor of the tasting room and the local culture of this Massachusetts winery. While you’re in, be sure to try their award winning selection of reds and whites.
155 Glendale Road, Southampton, MA. (413) 527-0164.
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Taylor Brook Winery
Located just over the border, Taylor Brook Winery in Woodstock, CT, is a hidden gem. This winery tends to over 2,000 vines of the finest grapes in the region. Head down to enjoy the country hospitality of this great local business, which offers tastings, bottles of their wine, and other great gift items for purchase. For a delicious winter wine, try their Winter Pomegranate.
848 Route 171, Woodstock, CT. (860) 974-1263.
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Obadiah McIntyre Farm
Obadiah McIntyre Farm Winery
The Obadiah McIntyre Farm Winery is located on the Charlton Orchards Farm property. The winery is owned and operated by a family that has been in the business of growing fruit for over 50 years, and began making wine in 1999. They are dedicated to making the best tasting wines around. Every weekend until the end of December, join them for a tasting and see for yourself.
44 Old Worcester Road, Charlton, MA. (508) 248-7941.
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Puttney Mountain Winery
Just over the Vermont border, Putney Mountain Winery located inside Basketville, has been making delicious local wines since the 1990s. All of their wines are crafted from local produce, which makes for the best tasting wine possible. If you’re toting the kids along for the day, the winery also sells juices made from locally grown produce, like their Putney Bubbly Vermont Sparkling Black Currant.
8 Bellows Falls Road, Putney, VT. (802) 387-5925.